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TRAVEL DIARIES

 

 

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Yellowknife

It seems odd that in the middle of packing up our home of 23 years in preparation for the move to our retirement home, I am heading back to the place I called home 25 years ago.

Tuesday, July 13

We landed at the Yellowknife Airport in bright sunshine. The airport is new and nothing in it seemed familiar - in fact some of it seemed particularly strange. My understanding is that the NWT is still grappling with the changes since the division of the Territories. Much of the symbolism still relates to when Nunavut was part of the NWT. What was familiar were the greetings exchanged between families who were obviously visiting from the South and family members returning to the North - these reunions aren't so obvious in a larger airport.

Airport

We had a nice walk around town, but very few places were the same as I remembered them. In some cases the buildings are the same, but different businesses occupy them. I may not remember what used to be in any particular spot, but I certainly remember that it wasn't what is there now.

Drummers

We went to a new French Bistro for dinner and had just settled in with our drinks when the power went off - now that brought back memories from the good old days. After about half an hour we were able to order our dinner. Pat had the Arctic Char Burger and I had a Buffalo Burger - not exactly French fare, but it was very tasty. While we were eating, Pat noticed a friend sitting at a table just behind us so we were able to chat about the changes in the City.

Wednesday, July 14

We had a leisurely breakfast at the former Nettie's Perogie House - now called simply The Diner. Over the course of a couple of hours several old friends from the passed wandered in and joined us. While Pat and Jim did some rehearsing for the festival I took a hike around Frame Lake. We used to live just up the slope from Frame Lake but the trail all around the Lake is new. I wasn't very far onto the trail when I had to stop and apply the bug spray - the mosquitoes here are huge.

Moquito

Just outside the Visitor's Center

A well-marked and well-maintained trail.

The view across the lake to downtown.

 

I was a little more than halfway into the trek when Sharon Firth went running past. I called out to her and we walked together for a bit. After dinner Pat and I walked up to the Pilot's Monument and enjoyed the view and the breeze.

Steps leading up to the Monument

Back Bay from the Pilot's Monument

The houseboats on Yellowknife Bay

 

We took a short trip out to Prelude Lake - in search of Cameron Falls because my memory was that the Falls were before Prelude. We stopped and asked how much further to Cameron Falls and were told it was about 20 minutes further on. Since it was getting late, and part of the way would be gravel, we decided to call it a day. At 11:15 PM it is still light out though so we were able to enjoy long days.

Thursday, July 15

It was a lovely day for my drive out to Cameron Falls. The road wasn't busy and the gravel portion was pretty well packed. I found the trailhead and headed in. The hike was much easier than I remembered. It is much better marked, and where we used to have to slosh through the wet spots they have boardwalks. And where we used to have to scramble up and down rock faces they now have stairs. In spite of that, the trail was very familiar. And just as I remembered, you could hear the falls long before you arrived at them.

The trailhead used to be bog - not anymore

Steps made it much safer than scrambling up and down the rocks

The trail was well marked - no chance of coming off the rock and heading the wrong way (as we used to do in the old days).

 

Looking back at those steps I climbed down earlier

Now why didn't we think to build ourselves Inukshuks as trail markers?

On my way back I build a little statue of my own to honor the memory of all my times at Cameron Falls and all the wonderful people I've done that hike with.

 

The Falls are as spectacular as ever - there is definitely a piece of my heart and soul in this spot.

On my way back I stopped in at Long Lake. The beach is now fenced off, and you enter it from a different direction but once you are there it hasn't changed much. I even dabbled my toes in the water. Next stop was the Bristol Monument - this looks better from a distance but it is a strong memory for me.

And to end the day I toured around to all of my Yellowknife homes.

Matonabee Street

52nd Street

Bigelow Crescent

 

Friday, July 16

I spent most of the day indoors - a tour of the Museum and the Legislative Assembly building were on my list.

My favorite spot in the museum is now a Cafe, but I loved the humour in having ravens perched on the rafters all the way around.

 

Who knew Pat was famous enough to have his own spot in the Museum.

The Legislative Assembly

 

I sat in the new park behind City Hall and listened to Tom Hus perform a noon-hour concert - a warm-up to Folk on the Rocks. That's the museum in the background.

 

Saturday, July 17 - Folk on the Rocks, Day 1

The Commissioner of the NWT bought me breakfast this morning. Pat and I both chuckled when we heard that George Tuccaro had been appointed Commissioner, and we were thrilled to meet him at the Gold Range for breakfast. He hasn't changed a bit - except he says he has to be on his best behaviour when he is acting in his official capacity. After breakfast we were off to the Festival Site. We were there early and they were still getting set up. We ran into a couple of friends who were working at the Festival - they say they need a tow truck on standby because every year someone gets stuck in the sand.

Better quit before the transmission is completely burned out

A little manpower does the trick

 

Pat Buckna and Jim Green (with Jim's grandchildren watching closely)

 

Our friend Heather was one of the founders of Folk on the Rock. This was the 30th anniversary, and she is explaining their vision to the crowd.

 

Sunday, July 18 - Folk on the Rocks, Day 2

Rick (in the orange cap) and the Relics. Rick is a friend from Expo days.

Cowboys, Truck Drivers and Pain (from left to right - Wyckham Porteous, Tim Hus, Pat Buckna, Justin Rutledge, Jim Cuddy, Ted Wesley)

From left to right - Ben Jammin, Gurpreet Chana (The Tabla Guy), Tanya Tagaq, Celina Kalluk, Mason Bach

 

Here's a video clip of the throat singers, Tanya Tagaq and Celina Kalluk. It's long, but an awesome display of their talent.

 

A couple of songs from Pat's set.

 

Monday, July 19

Time to put the past behind us and head home - into our future.